After arriving to Oviedo early evening, I walked to my hotel, Hotel Favila, that was conveniently located down the street from the train station. It was nice to have my own room on the first night, especially with little sleep on the plane and the adjustment to a different time zone. I refreshed a bit and then walked over to a nearby El Corte Ingles, Spain's version of Macy's, and purchased walking sticks, or bastones. The weather was slightly misty but not raining and perfect for a short stroll around the hotel's neighborhood.
A late dinner was eaten at Los Oscos, the restaurant connected to the hotel. The jamon, or ham, hung next to strands of garlic in the dining room area.
The next morning I felt more rested and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, which consisted of bakery pastries bought down the street. At noon I checked out of the hotel and wandered over to the municipal albergue, where the final night in Oviedo was spent.
Pilgrims and backpacks were already lined up at Albergue de Peregrinos El Salvador by the time I found the building. At 3:00 the hospitalero arrived and opened the albergue's entrance gate at street level. Stairs led up to the doorway of the main building on a hill. During check in I also bought my credencial, or pilgrim's passport booklet, and shell for my pack. The hospitalero stamped the first sello, or stamp, in the credencial and officially commenced my Camino. By the end of the walk, the credencial would be filled with sellos collected at albergues, churches, bars, etc. and presented as proof of the journey to receive a Compostela in Santiago.
The shell is significant to the journey and to being a pilgrim. During the Middle Ages shells became associated with St. James and the Camino for several reasons. One involves the legend concerning the transport of St. James' bones by boat near Finisterre. As the boat sailed along the coast, a young man on horseback followed it; the horse spooked and fell into the ocean with the man. Miraculously, both survived and rose out of the sea covered with shells.
Another possible connection of shells to the Camino was their availability on Galicia's coastal region -- pilgrims collected cockle shells and brought them back as proof of their journeys. Also, large shells were given as Compostelas to medieval pilgrims. From the 11th c. pilgrims collected decorated shells with holes pierced at the top so they could be worn on clothes or hats.
Thus, over the centuries, a cockle shell became the symbol of the Camino, and images of it can be seen on markers, art, and architecture connected to the routes. In more recent history, shells have been attached on backpacks at the beginning of the journey to designate walkers as pilgrims.
The albergue is part of a seminary building that also serves as headquarters for the regional Camino association.
My room filled quickly, and I felt happy to get a bottom bed (on the right).
I brought 2 ex-votos (the brain cell and a memory shell) to the cathedral in hopes of leaving them at this sacred place rooted in pilgrimage history. At the entrance desk, I showed the ex-votos and inquired about whether it would be possible to leave them. A church director who spoke English was called over, and I showed her the ex-votos and explained their purpose.
She then led me to what she described as "the most important place in the cathedral," the chapel where the tabernacle was kept. As she directed, I placed them on top of the votive candle stand, where she said they would later be blessed. Afterwards, the director walked me back to the entrance and wished a "Buen Camino."
Bronze sculptures decorate city plazas, including at Plaza Alfonso II El Casto by the cathedral where La Regenta, or The Regent, has stood since 1997. The sculpture by Spanish artist Mauro Alvarez Fernandez depicts the main character, Ana, of a novel written by Leopoldo Alas y Urena and published in 1884-1885. Set in a fictional city based on Oviedo, the story involves Ana's relationships and tells a wider narrative of 19th c. Spanish society.
To Rufo, the Dog of Oviedo bronze by Oviedo artist Sara Iglesia Poli was installed in 2015 and pays tribute to people dedicated to helping abandoned animals. Rufo was a beloved stray Shepherd mix taken care of by many citizens. A film and musical were created that told his story.
A popular Asturian drink is sidra, or hard apple cider. The traditional way to serve it involves pouring the cider from above head level to increase the fizz.
The next morning I felt more rested and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, which consisted of bakery pastries bought down the street. At noon I checked out of the hotel and wandered over to the municipal albergue, where the final night in Oviedo was spent.
Pilgrims and backpacks were already lined up at Albergue de Peregrinos El Salvador by the time I found the building. At 3:00 the hospitalero arrived and opened the albergue's entrance gate at street level. Stairs led up to the doorway of the main building on a hill. During check in I also bought my credencial, or pilgrim's passport booklet, and shell for my pack. The hospitalero stamped the first sello, or stamp, in the credencial and officially commenced my Camino. By the end of the walk, the credencial would be filled with sellos collected at albergues, churches, bars, etc. and presented as proof of the journey to receive a Compostela in Santiago.
Another possible connection of shells to the Camino was their availability on Galicia's coastal region -- pilgrims collected cockle shells and brought them back as proof of their journeys. Also, large shells were given as Compostelas to medieval pilgrims. From the 11th c. pilgrims collected decorated shells with holes pierced at the top so they could be worn on clothes or hats.
Thus, over the centuries, a cockle shell became the symbol of the Camino, and images of it can be seen on markers, art, and architecture connected to the routes. In more recent history, shells have been attached on backpacks at the beginning of the journey to designate walkers as pilgrims.
My room filled quickly, and I felt happy to get a bottom bed (on the right).
Time was left in the day to explore this lovely city and capital of Asturias. Founded by monks in 761, Oviedo became associated with pilgrimage after King Alfonso II's journey to St. James' tomb in the 9th c. Also, the city was an important pilgrimage destination similar to Santiago after it acquired martyrs' relics, and in 1109 a cathedral chapel called the Camara Santa was built to keep them.
The town hall's archway leads to the cathedral.
Oviedo's Cathedral of San Salvador combines different architectural styles from its development over many centuries, similar to the construction of other cathedrals along the Road. The structure, built in the 13th c. on the site of an older basilica, is mainly Gothic with Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque components. The cathedral's full name: Santa Iglesia Basilica Catedral Metropolitana de San Salvador de Oviedo, or translated as Holy Church Basilica Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Savior of Oviedo. Besides the Camara Santa chapel, it's noted for housing the Shroud of Oviedo, the cloth that purportedly covered the face of Christ after his crucifixion.
She then led me to what she described as "the most important place in the cathedral," the chapel where the tabernacle was kept. As she directed, I placed them on top of the votive candle stand, where she said they would later be blessed. Afterwards, the director walked me back to the entrance and wished a "Buen Camino."
The relief above the main portal dates from the 17th c. and depicts the 6 figures of the Transfiguration.
The plaza fountain across from the cathedral
To Rufo, the Dog of Oviedo bronze by Oviedo artist Sara Iglesia Poli was installed in 2015 and pays tribute to people dedicated to helping abandoned animals. Rufo was a beloved stray Shepherd mix taken care of by many citizens. A film and musical were created that told his story.
Nap time in a barbershop
Telling time at the bar El Reloj
Elvis was in the house.
A small auto for "home service" asks "Do you want to learn more about wines than you already know?"
This colorful building can be found in Plaza del Fontan, named for a natural spring associated with the area. Restaurants and a market fill the courtyard.
A popular Asturian drink is sidra, or hard apple cider. The traditional way to serve it involves pouring the cider from above head level to increase the fizz.
San Juan El Real
An early 20th c. building on Calle del Marques de Santa Cruz
El Regreso de Williams B. Arrensburg (1993), known as "The Tourist" -- the artist left no clues to its meaning.
La Maternidad (1996) by Colombian artist Fernando Botero stands in Plaza de la Escandalera. Around the sculpture were wood walking sticks on sale for support of the organizations Doctors Without Borders and Unicef to help refugees in Africa.
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