To Santiago

Arrival to Santiago! I marked the end of my Camino Primitivo in Obradoiro Plaza by the Cathedral. A pilgrim tradition is to stand by or lie on the 2 plaques located in the middle of this square -- the top one designates the Camino as the 1st European Cultural Itinerary awarded in 1987 by the Council of Europe; the bottom plaque commemorates the Holy Year in 2004. 

In front of the Cathedral -- my first (and maybe last) selfie!

The walk from O Pedrouzo to Santiago began at 4:45 a.m. An early start was in order to reach Santiago by noon. The day before I scouted the way out of town and hoped my small R. Steves light would be bright enough to see markers in the dark. I also hoped there would be other walkers with good lights leaving at that time, and I could follow them.

Camino synchronicity prevailed, and I met 3 walkers from Denmark by the woods where the Road left town. One of them had a head lamp, and we pooled together our light sources to illuminate the darkness ahead. Adam, Rasmus, and Tobias became my walking partners all the way to Santiago. They're students studying math and music and had met at a music camp; Tobias' gear included a guitar. They began their Camino in the city of Leon on the Frances route. We talked about everything from Danish foods to the upcoming U.S. election.
      

It remained dark out for over two hours, and we continued using our lights to guide us. In Lavacolla, the moon glowed over 19th c. Iglesia de San Paio. During the Middle Ages, pilgrims would stop by a stream near here where they bathed & purified themselves before walking the final stretch into Santiago. The town is now known for being the location of Santiago's airport.

Nothing was open yet for breakfast until we finally saw a hotel cafe with its lights on. The croissants tasted especially good after walking for several hours without food. 

At the monument on top Monte do Gozo, or Mount of Joy, there were shoes, clothes, etc. left by pilgrims. Monte do Gozo is a hill about 2 miles outside of Santiago and where walkers view the city for the first time. A development built there in 1993 encompasses a hostel, camp grounds, and gardens. The monument commemorates Pope John Paul's visit to Santiago in 1989 and St. Francis' pilgrimage in the 13th c. Dad and I stayed at the hostel in 2011 with the thought of an early morning entry into Santiago the next day.  

The Cathedral's spires appeared up ahead as we got closer to Santiago's old section, a UNESCO World Heritage site and heart of the city. Time wise, we would be able to get our Compostelas before the noon Pilgrim's Mass.

After stopping by Obradoiro Plaza, we walked over to the new Centro Internacional de Acogida al Peregrino, or Pilgrims' Office, for our Compostelas. Open since December 2015, the office is located not far from the Cathedral and includes a library, mailing center, and train & bus ticket counters. The building isn't as quaint as the old office but fulfills the need for a larger facility. 

 

We waited in line for about 20+ minutes -- the line was longer by the time we left. 

A green light on the board and a bell signals when a Puesto, or desk post, becomes available. Quite a different system than when Dad and I received our Compostelas in the past.

Just a quick form to fill out and my Compostela was given. I bought a "tubo" or protective tube plus a concha shell. I'm glad that in 2011 we had the experience of answering questions about our walk and also sharing our story of the Dalas with the person who granted us certificates.

A mural decorates the wall opposite the Puesto stations.

My credential on an office table

There's a restful courtyard outside the office doors.

With minutes left before the Mass, I rushed to a luggage storage shop by the Cathedral to store my pack. Backpacks are no longer allowed inside for security reasons. In the shop, I bid a hasty goodbye to Adam, Rasmus, and Tobias. They had other plans, including finding an albergue and purchasing bus tickets to Finisterre.

Inside the Cathedral was a packed crowd, especially during St. James' festival week. I squeezed into a spot by the transcept wall and leaned back to listen. At the end of the Pilgrim's Mass, the Botafumiero, or giant incense burner, swung while "Hymn to the Apostle" was sung. No matter how many times I've witnessed this tradition from the 11th c., it's always mesmerizing. A column blocked my view of the tirabolieros, the 8 red-robed men who hoist the thurible's ropes over a pulley in the crossing dome.

The swinging of the Botafumiero began as a form of prayer but also served a different purpose -- to fumigate smelly pilgrims. This came to mind because I wasn't smelling the greatest from walking over 12 miles that morning. Also, after almost 3 weeks on the Road, 'pilgrim stench' had begun to permeate my gear, including clothes only hand washed. Based on previous Caminos, this odor begins to set in at the 3 week mark!

An eye in a triangle looks down from the cimborio, or crossing dome, and symbolizes the eye of God watching over humankind.

The Cathedral's organs were installed in 1977 but are encased in 18th c. structures. Angels embellish the pipes and reflect Baroque origins. When I hear the music, I think of Aunt Arlene who played the organ for many years.

For the first 2 nights in Santiago I had booked reservations at Seminario Menor, a seminary constructed in 1955 and now a school & albergue. For 12 Euros, it offers single beds, plenty of duchas (showers), & a store at the lower level. The building is on a hill & overlooks the city. Dad & I stayed here several times.

Seminario's entrance and where pilgrims check in at the office to the right

My room was the same one stayed in last year & in 2013. After showering & getting my gear situated, I rested from the day's excitement. Other walkers napped too.  

Looking down to Seminario's courtyard and out to the city beyond

Dinner was at Cafe Bar Derby, located not far from Seminario and where Dad and I traditionally go on our first night in the city. The ensalada mixta, complete with onions and tomatoes, tasted good.