Grandas de Salime

Early morning sunshine forecast a warm day as I departed Berducedo. The day's walk began with a relatively easy stretch descending to the nearby village of La Mesa, which included 17th c. Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalena. From La Mesa there was a brutal climb that led up to the ridge line with wind turbines seen above.

Pine trees shaded one stretch of the trail. Lots of pine cones could be found. 

Christoffer & Petteri pose by the sign to Grandas de Salime, our destination for that day. From this point Berducedo was 11 km. (6.8 miles) behind us, & Grandas lay 8.3 kilometers (5.2 miles) ahead.

The rustic mountain spot of Montefurado includes Capilla de Santa Marina that dates to the 14th c. This building was constructed using slate masonry & in the past had contained one of the oldest bells in Asturias.

I'm posing with my backpack and Pilgrim Pouch, which has been handy to carry essentials. Follow along on the Pouch's adventures at Pilgrim Pouch Peregrinations.

Sunlight brightened the capilla's interior that displayed devotional objects.

View of the Embalse de Salime (Salime reservoir) -- the trail winds down to the dam constructed in 1954.

 

On the hillside (upper left) are the abandoned buildings of old Salime 

that was flooded with the dam's construction.

Beyond the dam, the Road climbed up to Hotel Las Grandas, which included a terrace that overlooked the reservoir. I drank a refreshing Kas limon while enjoying the picturesque setting.

A creative gate dated 1984 on the way into Grandas -- the words translate as

"Founded as a link (nexus) with yesterday"

The "Albergue entrance" to Casa Sanchez was located adjacent to a garden.

Another gate contained a flock of sheep.

A highlight of the stay in Grandas was visiting the Ethnographic Museum, which showcased the heritage of Western Asturias. Established in 1986, the museum displays over 11,000 objects that had been used by the people of the region in their daily lives. Sarah joined me for a tour and history lessons.

A demonstration was given on how nails were made using an anvil.

 

Under an horreo another demonstration showed how wooden bowls were made with a foot powered lathe.

Displays of Asturian madrenas were regionally grouped -- each region had a distinguishing design. A workshop showed how they were made. 

One building on the museum grounds contained rooms with service sector re-creations, including a school room, tailor, and a barber shop complete with chairs.

Sewing patterns were displayed by vintage machines.

A chapel connected to the main building was filled with worship artifacts.

The big surprise was finding a leg ex-voto hanging in one corner! It represented oblational practices in Asturias & also those connected with the Camino. On the left are traditional pilgrim gear -- a walking staff, shell, & gourd.

Wheelbarrows and carts next to the museum entrance 

Later Sarah & I ate dinner at Arreigada restaurant where we sat across from a Norwegian couple I had first met at the albergue in Salas & also saw in Pola de Allande. I talked with them about St. Olaf's pilgrimage route in Sweden & Norway. They said it's a more conventional backpacking path with limited accommodations and suggested waiting to hike it in the future when "albergues" may be available.

Our meal included a garbonzo bean medley -- it was supposed to be a vegetarian dish but contained pieces of ham -- pork is never far from a Spanish table.