Cornellana

After breakfast and morning conversation with Kevin, I left the albergue around 9:00. By that time hazy sunshine had arrived, and by the afternoon it was warm. The Road to Cornellana, my destination, gained elevation with ups & downs and kept my walking sticks busy.

The Primitivo is a quiet path with fewer walkers than the more popular Camino Frances. Last year around 11,400 pilgrims received Compostelas for the Primitivo compared to over 172,000 for the Frances. In two days of walking, I didn't encounter many other pilgrims on the trail.

Brugmansia, or Angel's Trumpet, is a shrub sometimes seen growing in yards -- the plant is also called "The Devils Breath" because of toxins in it that can be lethal. As I took this picture of Angel's Trumpet by a house, the homeowner opened the front door. She smiled after I pointed to the flowers and said "bonita." 

In the midst of getting ready to leave the albergue, I forgot to fill my water bottle. Guidebooks indicated there would be no fuentes, or fountains, during a long stretch of the trail. Just when I thought that maybe I needed to ask for water at a casa, three fountains magically appeared within a short distance of each other (no kidding!). The one shown, built in 2002, had a bird shaped faucet handle. 

Major road construction was underway through the valley near Cornellana.

I arrived to town early and explored the main street while waiting for the albergue to open. Besides a few bars, shops included the bakery Carasitos, a traditional Austurian reposteria, or cake shop. A side door was open, and I could see flour stacked and bakers working. I picked out a couple pastries for a late lunch and ate them by the Rio Nonoya that runs through Cornellana.

The municipal albergue, Monasterio de San Salvador de Cornellana, is located within a monastery founded in 1024 by Christina Bermudez, a king's daughter who lived there as a nun after her husband died. In the 12th c., the complex was handed over to the Abby of Cluny and established as a Benedictine monastery. It remained a major economic center until the 19th c. Although the facade was renovated during the 17th c., the interior retains its Romanesque origins.

Cat-looking creatures decorate the archway that leads to the albergue's large courtyard.

 

The spacious inside included 24 beds and two bathrooms. Beds were still available at the end of the day.

Later for dinner I bought pan, queso, tomate, y aceitunas (bread, cheese, tomato, and olives) at a mercado and made a bocadillo (sandwich). The albergue's kitchen was equipped with all the essentials.

Shortly after I checked in two French pilgrims (seated closest to the wall above) arrived pulling carts that carried their gear. After they rested and cooked a meal, the men left at dusk to get back on the Road.

Walker Anne from Lyon, France, constructs dreamcatchers from natural materials & objects collected along the trail. She then leaves her creations at albergues.

"Circus Francesco" was set up in front of the monastery -- an interesting juxtaposition of the "sacred and profane." It reminded me of seeing years ago in Barcelona the interesting combination of an amusement park across the street from the basilica atop Mount Tibidabo.

The family who operated the production drove around town with a megaphone advertising the night's performance. Their animals grazed on grass by the monastery. The menagerie included goats, a donkey, & camel. From what I could see only a pony performed in the kids' show.