Santiago, Segundo Dia

For the last 2 nights in Santiago I moved over to Hospederia San Martin Pinario, the hotel and former Benedictine monastery complex adjacent to the Cathedral. The hotel's top floor has the "pilgrim rate" rooms much cheaper than regular accommodations. I've stayed here with Dad on previous walks too.

  St. James greets hotel guests in the hallway leading to the lobby.

San Martin was built on the grounds of a structure that dates approximately 899, and by the 15th c. it had become the most powerful monastery in Galicia.

My room, complete with a 

bathroom & big towel! The 

window looked out over the city. 

After getting settled at San Martin, I met with Ivar Renke at his office about a 5 minute walk away from the hotel. Ivar created and manages the popular Camino de Santiago forum & online store, Casa Ivar, which offers Camino related merchandise, including guidebooks, credentials, shells, T-shirts, and the Pilgrim Pouch. 

Originally from Norway, Ivar attended Washington State University and spent time in Fort Collins, CO before moving to Santiago with his family. Since 2004 his forum has provided answers to walkers' questions and been an online arena for topics concerning the Camino. In addition to the online store, Ivar also provides luggage service for pilgrims who ship gear ahead while on the trail or for luggage to be used after the journey ends.

** The Pilgrim Pouch's adventures on the Primitivo can be found on Pilgrim Pouch Peregrinations.

After visiting Ivar, I walked over to Praza Praterias to see the Museo de las Peregrinaciones y de Santiago (Pilgrimage & Santiago Museum). The museum had moved into a new space since seeing it last in 2013. Exhibits present artifacts pertaining to the devotion of St. James and development of Camino routes during the Middle Ages. 

Objects shown above include a 17-18th c. moulded enameled ceramic shell canteen, or cantimplora, from Valencia and also a shell-shaped ampulla from the 15th c. Ampullae were flask-shaped small containers for water or oil associated with saints' relics, or 'holy bones,' which were dipped into water with the thought of transferring healing powers to the liquid. Around 2" tall, the objects typically have an image of saints, shrines, or biblical scenes. Pilgrims would carry ampullae home with them as souvenirs or for healing purposes and were sometimes worn around the neck as pendants. Mass produced, they were made from clay or a lead/metal alloy and cast in 2-part limestone moulds.

Throughout the Middle Ages, ampullae were sold and collected at pilgrimage sites in eastern & western Europe and the Holy Land. This ampulla dates between the 4-8th c. & is from a potter's workshop in Alexandria (Egypt). The relief on the front shows St. Menas, an Egyptian saint known for healing illnesses & as a protector of pilgrims. 

The museum's collection includes various depictions of peregrinos and St. James with his attributes -- cloak, walking stick, gourd, pouch, and hat with shell.

Fragments of a leather shoe from the 11-14th c. -- it would have been difficult walking a Camino wearing this kind of footwear!

The only surviving gateway of the medieval city wall is Mazarelos Arch in Praza Mazarelos. 

Gelato fans at Limoncelli  

The Flight of Egypt is depicted above the portal Portada dos Carros of the Convento de Sao Paio de Antealtares. The original Benedictine monastery building was founded in the 9th c. and looked after the tomb of St. James. The present Baroque structure is from the 17-18th c.  

The Praza da Inmaculada (Azabacheria) in front of San Martin &
on the north side of the Cathedral

Many Spanish student groups were staying at Seminario -- above is a portion of one group that wore green shirts, green sock tassels, and brown ranger style hats. Wood walking sticks completed their trekking gear. 

 These hanging bucket lights looked festive.

Groups celebrate their journeys' end in Obradoiro Plaza.

A singer and guitarist performed at a cafe while their table companion directed.

In the evening at San Martin I got together with Julia from Paris, whom I'd last seen in Melide. Since then, she had gone to Finisterre and was returning home the next day. We chatted in the hotel's courtyard about our Caminos and how the journey can bring clarity and transformation. At a table nearby were members of a French Camino association in Santiago for a conference. One member from Paris, Adeline, is a medievalist and researches Camino and pilgrimage topics, including ex-votos. It was fun to finish the day sharing information and experiences.